63 Clinton - New York City

When I need a hug in food form, I turn to Asian flavors (chalk it up to my half-Filipino heritage). So I was thrilled to try the seasonal tasting menu at 63 Clinton — the Michelin-starred restaurant from Samuel Clonts and Raymond Trinh (formerly of 3-Michelin-starred Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare and Michelin-starred Bar Uchu) in New York City’s Lower East Side — which puts an Asian spin on elevated, comforting classics. Consider the “breakfast taco,” a texture wonderland with melt-in-your-mouth ajitama (soft-boiled egg), a crispy hash brown, and a heaping spoonful of smoked trout roe topped with an edible flower, all wrapped in a fresh flour tortilla. Another highlight: a twist on niçoise with meaty slices of fresh bluefin sashimi beneath just enough frisée endives, a tangy olive slice, and a sprinkling of fried potato crumbs. I also savored the greenest congee (a rice porridge), thanks to pureed green and white asparagus, accompanied by crab and morels. It was like being embraced by spring. The koji-aged ribeye was also delectable, seared to a perfect medium rare, then plated with a scrumptious jus, buttery mashed potatoes, and spinach. The prettiest bowl of tart strawberry-rhubarb-shiso sorbet and fruity baba au rhum, a light yeast cake soaked in rum syrup, were refreshing finishes. I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the spirited staff, who had me in stitches several times throughout the evening, and the minimal, wabi sabi-inspired interiors, all of which made me feel right at home. — Jackie Risser